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Fn P90 Upgrades


ericeel

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Hello everyone.. I have always been a P90 fan.. It is a really futuristic PDR.. I will say.. that after working on by buddies' M4 and my AK47.. that disassembling a P90 is a breeze.. you can take TWO screws out and the gearbox is in your hand.. TWO.. Here is a disassembly video about it..   Yeah.. that easy.. I will be honest.. when I got this P90.. I wanted to make it last.. well... forever.. So here is a list of things.. that I got for my baby..

 

Gun: King Arms FN Herstal Licensed Full Metal P90 Tactical Airsoft AEG

Sight: AIM Sports Reflex Dot Sight - Weaver / Picatinny Mount (Very, Very, Very Nice!!!!)

Motor: Matrix Magnum Torque High Performance Airsoft AEG Motor - Long Type (YES P90 USES LONG TYPE) even though the Thompson & P90 use both version 6.. their motor mounts are wildly different..

Cylinder Head: ASG Ultimate Upgrade CNC Aluminum Cylinder Head - Version 6 (P90 / Thompson)

Piston: JB Unicorn Reinforced Aluminum Piston, Full Teeth.

Piston Head: G&G Reinforced Airsoft AEG Aluminum Piston Head

Shims: G&P Ultra Precision Gun Smith Gearbox Shim Set. (40 pcs)

Nozzle: Guarder High Precision Oil Tampered Nozzle for P90. (Thought this was metal)

Spring Guide: ASG Ultimate Upgrade Steel Spring Guide with Ball Bearing (This did not fit my version 6 gearbox.. I had to use a dremel tool to grind off the ears so it would slide into place..) I wrote a detailed review.

Spring: Matrix M140 260% Irregular Pitch Airsoft AEG Upgrade Spring (450~550 FPS) (I haven't chronoed the gun yet.. but if the FPS is off the charts.. I will put a weaker spring in place.. The P90's barrel is really short... so idk.. It's only $10/Spring.. and it takes me no more then 10-15 minutes to change it out.. )

Flash Hider: Matrix P90 Type Metal Flashhider for Airsoft AEG (14mm Negative) (This makes the gun look amazing)

Bearing/Bushings: SHS X-Mod 6mm Airsoft AEG Gearbox Ball Bearing Bushings (The KA version 6 GB has 6mm... I ordered 7mm and I was wrong.. Evike let me send back for instore credit...)

Li-Po Battery(s): Turnigy nano-tech 1800mah 2S 20~40C Lipo AIRSOFT Pack (US Warehouse) Turnigy nano-tech 1800mah 3S 25~50C Lipo AIRSOFT Pack (USA warehouse) (I measured the 8.4 battery that came with the P90.. I know these fit.. (That 8.4 was completely useless)

Charger: Turnigy E3 Compact 2S/3S Lipo Charger 100-240v (US Plug) (US Warehouse)

If you guys want cheap Li-po batteries.. Here is the Link.. Enter the size of your current battery or battery compartment in MM (CM/10) If you want them faster.. just make sure you have USA warehouse selected.  If you don't.. you will have to wait like a month for it to come from china.

 

I didn't get another cylinder.. because I don't really see a point in that, the one I have creates a great seal.. Also didn't get another gear set because of that.. Unless someone can give me a really good reason to.. or it breaks.. I won't..

Now.. I didn't mess with getting a barrel or a new Hop-up unit.. simply because I don't know the benefits of having a 6.01mm barrel over having a 6.03mm barrel..

Also would like to get a burst wizard.. any recommendations?

 

I typed this up in a word document and never posted it to the forums. lol.. Anyways, Since the Li-po batteries were so cheap.. I decided to purchase a variety to find the best one. (best rate of fire more likely) The first battery I used was an 11.1v 25C - 50C li-po.. And.. even with an M140 spring.. the ROF was too much.. in fact, it was so fast that the semi auto function stopped working.. I'm going to try a 7.4 20C - 40C.. to get a lower rate of fire.. I seriously need a chrono.. but with that 11.1 it would eat through a 300rd highcap in like 10-15 seconds... just crazy fast.. I would be fine with it, if my semi auto worked.. (I read on a P90 forum that this happens if the ROF is too fast.. The arm doesn't move up high enough to hit the contactor) Before I had my 11.1.. the 8.4 would lock up the gearbox becuase it didn't have enough power.. To see if it would work.. I did a direct link to a car battery to the motor.. only for a moment.. but I sware... that 11.1 is very close to the car battery..

 

Since I had the 6mm ball bearings.. they couldn't hold up to the 18,000-20,000 rpm of the motor.. and the ones on the first gear broke within 600rds.. To fix this... I put the stock metal bushings back in for the first gear.. and left the balls in for the 2nd and 3rd gears. Because they don't spin as fast. Evike sells a version 6 gearbox shell with 7mm bushing holes.. But it's not worth spending an extra $40 on that and another ball bearing set when my rate of fire is already crazy fast.

 

I'll keep this tread up to date with what I do to the gun. Over all, so far.. it is everything I dreamed it to be. It is small and compact.. Mags are a pain to load with bbs but once you wind it up, it will feed a full 300rd high cap until its empty.. The ONLY thing I do not like so far.. is the fact that the sight is mounted so high off the barrel. It is a good 6-7 inches off of the barrel.. That makes it hard to sight it in, and its only good at a certain range.. With all of the gearbox upgrades.. Believe it or not, but it actually has a very small amount of recoil.. about what you get when you shoot a .22caliber rifle. It feels great.. :D

 

 

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I would highly recommend you switch to solid bushings if your gearbox shell is only 6mm. 6mm bearings are known to bust, and the bushings might help with your rof issue

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I would highly recommend you switch to solid bushings if your gearbox shell is only 6mm. 6mm bearings are known to bust, and the bushings might help with your rof issue

 

2 of the 6 ball bearings have already failed.. with maybe.. 600rds.. and yes.. after looking at the balls that are inside of them.. it doesn't surprise me that they broke. I'm putting all of the metal bushings back. Now I get to spend more time re-shimming :lol:  yay..

 

The piston.. has failed as well.. Now this did surprise me..

The AL back that the removable steel teeth were up against broke off at around 600rds as well.. when that happened, that piece got jammed into my gears. Don't think it hurt the gears but it locked up the gearbox forcing me to take it apart.

I sent evike an RMA request.. as this thing was basically new. For the price it should have lasted forever. However.. on the underside I noticed it looked cracked.. So I pulled the teeth back a little bit. and there was a crack about an inch long under the teeth.. with the end broke off.. I was able to measure the thickness of the aluminum thats under the teeth with my digital calipers.. It measured 0.25mm.. the thickness of 2-3 sheets of copy paper.. With that thickness.. it doesn't surprise me that it cracked.. a poor design in my opinion. If Evike doesn't let me send it back or give me another one.. I'll just get some JB wield and the teeth will be on there forever.. becuase if I don't.. the teeth will get ripped out of the end of the piston.

 

I know a guy who owns a machine shop that I do business with.. I'm going to see if he can make me a FULL steel piston.. get rid of this plastic and AL bs that constantly brakes.. But if I do that.. I will find the next weak link in my gearbox.. eventually the whole thing will be made out of stainless. and it will never, ever, ever brake and will last forever.. lol

 

Another thing... I don't know how I missed this before but... aparenty.. the stock KA sector gear only has 14 teeth instead of 15.. This didn't really effect anything too much but the piston wasn't doing a full stroke.. the gear was skipping off of the 2nd to last tooth instead of the last on the piston.. 

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Edited by ericeel
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