Jump to content

Hanback

Authorized Sellers
  • Content Count

    336
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Hanback last won the day on June 2

Hanback had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

100 Excellent

About Hanback

  • Rank
    Forum Warrior

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NWI
  • Interests
    Whiskey, Women, and Bad Decisions

Recent Profile Visitors

529 profile views
  1. Little over two years ago my interest peaked in concealment mods and thus the idea of gun painting came up. I think we can all agree that nearly 95% of painted guns out there look like shite though and I HATE with a burning passion the texture of a gun that is just primed and feels like a chalkboard. Thus my requirements for the painting were 1) It needs to actually look good, not like a third grader who spent more time huffing the aerosol can than actually applying the paint 2) It needs to be functional and actually work, so no punisher camo, orange tiger stripe, etc etc "look at me," "give me attention because my parents never did" style paint jobs 3) It needs to have a proper finish so that im not getting spine chills every time my fingers contact the gun and remind me of fingernails on a chalkboard (*shudder* uggghhh!) 4) It needs to be durable but able to wear in and as such look natural.....unlike any of the Kardashians So, a bit of research, a bit of testing, and I settled on plain jane rattle cans (its what the pros use....no joke) which if properly applied, are long lasting but do wear as I was looking for. As to the finish, the secret has always been clear coat. Finish is its literal defined job. Its no secret, yet literally nobody does it. Matte clearcoat mist from 8-12" away to reduce any amount of shine while still providing the smooth finish. Now, all I needed was pattern. Theres a bazillion different camo patterns out there and even more forum threads and conversations on which is best. The sheer idiocracy in much of said discussions is staggering. So abandoning that, I analyzed my specific environment (Indiana) and the camo patterns that have worked best in my experience and made my decisions from there. To no surprise, or total surprise, I dont know, but anways, I settled on Flecktarn. *Note: This is not to be a debate on the effectiveness of flecktarn in the Indiana and greater central upper Midwest region, because, if you disagree with me, well, your wrong, its the greatest camo ever produced, and if you don't think so then go write your congressman to have it banned in order to spite me and make your point, to which ill call you a cotton headed ninny muggins. Anyways, I discovered this company, and although it was a bit steep on price, opted to give it a shot because of requirements No. 1&2 above. https://www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils/products/flecktarn-camouflage-stencil-kit Now, in a more serious light, successful painting is all about the prep work. I dismantle the guns fully and while wearing latex gloves, wiped down all surfaces in acetone to not only clean the surface, but to simultaneously strip all oils and etch the surface for primer adhesion. Yes even the plastics, just do it gently. All it takes is a good micro-fiber cloth or paper towel that wont leave any fibers behind dipped in acetone. This isn't the acetone from your mother's/wife's/sister's medicine closet either, but the proper industrial stuff from the hardware store, aka the good stuff. Also, don't huff acetone. Its a disclaimer, plus it stinks. It is vital that you wear gloves to not only protect your hands, but to handle the now clean parts to prevent any oils or impurities from getting back on the parts. Once every inch is thoroughly scrubbed, put on fresh gloves, and reassemble. Then you are ready to start. These stencil kits are made specifically for duracoat which requires you to spray the color, and then bake the gun. Thus, it is a superb high quality with great edges and adhesion. This is where I differ and do it custom though. Proper flecktarn has 5 colors that move from dark to light in application layers and overlap a LOT. After the first gun I did, I modified my process because there just wasn't enough overlap or coverage of the darker colors. Also I ignore the stencil numbering and apply more darks. Don't worry, more darks make it turn out better I promise. Studying the actual camo pattern in front of me, I mimic placement and overlap and use all the stencils for my first 4 colors. Then for the final layer, I take an exact-o knife to the remaining stencil scraps (boarders, cut outs, etc on the transfer paper) and start making my final layer by custom cutting stencils. Ensure that all the hard lines and corners are on overlaps while the smooth and swooping edges are on bare gun surface. Sadly I don't have any pictures of this process....yet. Ill update the thread on my next round of painting which will happen shortly. The final paint coat should be a matte clear coat. Hold the can 8-12" away and gently dust the gun. It may apply slightly shiny, but it will dull once dried, unless of course you bathe the gun from 4" away. Also, once done spraying, let the gun rest for a week. Don't touch it. The paint needs the time to fully rest and cure. Dry paint does not mean cured paint. It needs the time to become strong like Russian ox. If you find yourself wanting to touch the still curing gun, take you hands and go touch something else (*Disclaimer: I do not condone any inappropriate behavior from this statement. Said statement shall apply only to its intended use and statement provider shall be released from any legal ramifications from any misinterpretation of said statement.) The best part of these stencils is that if you do the above and apply them properly, gently remove then and place them on wax paper. The stencils will still have their adhesive and can be reused to the paint mags. I don't suggest painting another gun with them as the paint buildup on the edges will cause the overlaps to not be as precise, but it is plenty precise for mags and other assorted rail furniture. I personally painted 16 mags, 8 at a time, so I got 3 uses out of the stencils, making them well worth my money. A full gun and 16 mags is worth $55 in my book. Things to keep in mind: - ALWAYS wear latex gloves when handling the gun, stencils, or placing stencils. Keep the oils from your hands off of all. - ALWAYS cycle gloves to a new pair each round of stenciling to keep impurities from transferring and NEVER reuse gloves. Just buy a whole box of them at a time. - Don't paint like a retard. Multiple smooth, light coats is the way to go....not heavy coats. You should still see the yellow of the stencil after your first two coats. Slow and steady buildup man. - Hit from all directions including from below. The gun! Nothing else! Just the gun. Get your mind out of the gutter. - Don't be afraid to blend paints as you go. For me, the flecktarn grey was achieved by applying a grey primer and then dusting it with a light forest green to give it the green hue. - Give 24 hours of dry time between color final layer coat and next layer stencil. - Remove stencils gently and with an exact-o knife when necessary, not your grubby fingernail. If you are using your fingernail then you already broke rule number 1 above so you might as well just throw it, and yourself, into the trash can because its were you both belong. - WEAR GLOVES So without further adieu, here is the finished product. The AK in traditional flecktarn was the first one before my modified process. As you can see, there is too much light green and the overlap doesn't look right. However, the second AK utilizing my modified process turned out phenomenal. Then I did a chopped M60 for fun and it turned out great on the traditional colors (sorry for lack of good photo, waiting on completion of her flecktarn sister). The actual hardware gun builds themselves are different stories. I can type it up if anyone wants to hear them. Each AK is a ridiculous overkill build and priced well above anything I could ever sell, so they are just permanent personals. As to effectiveness, I suppose that's an ongoing thing and up to the eye of the beholder. A few shots of in game though, which are of me very much not trying to blend in and more or less running and gunning. Still need to get the tropentarn AK out for a game still. It isn't the easiest way to paint, but by far and second only to hydro-dipping, it is one of the best. Also, the rattle cans are all Rustoliem. So, feel free to ask any questions. Hopefully this gives some ideas and insight to others wanting similar. I have at least three more projects coming up (1 airsoft 2 real steel) so Ill update this thread as I go.
  2. So this isn't a bad teching job or one of Holland's very enjoyable walkthroughs (I'm not that funny sadly). This is a flat out carnage thread. Hopefully one that serves as a warning. First off, ever seen an M60 gearbox fail? Welp, I've done the impossible. Picture speaks for itself. 40 hours of precision fine tuning and adjustments out the friggin window with this. Mildly aggrivating. Also, those that run support guns typically run very large and powerful batteries right? I'm guessing that you never gave thought to the microswitch and it's reaction to that 70c monster 11.1v lipo did you? Want to know what happens when you don't? Take a look. How this happened? The microswitch experienced excessive amperage from one of the brick batteries here which caused it to heat up, arc, and fuze the circuit close. With zero trigger input the gun ran away. All new meaning to the phrase "runaway 60." After the microswitch fuzed the stock wiring was unable to handle the excessive electric load, and in this instance, the actual tamiya bullet connections were the weakest link and welded themselves together and proceeded to then melt the connector body itself. The result, a 60 firing on its own without stopping while billowing smoke from the gas tube. Made it somewhat realistic! So if you run a support gun, make sure to keep your batteries on the lower discharge end until you rewire and install a bigger microswitch. This happened on a 10rnd burst test of the gun. Clearly the damage had already been done and my test pushed it to the failure point. All 3 60's here in the shop just got fully rewired today to bypass the stupid mosfet rof control with good automotive copper wire and 25A beefy micro switches. Once done, feel free to put that beast battery in and spray to your hearts content. Until then, keep it low, a runaway 60 is not a good thing.
  3. No dremel work on this girl thankfully, only 1M+ rounds and 10+years of heavy use and abuse between technicals, emplacements, and just plain humping. Original owner has retired her and moved on and I couldn't let it leave the unit, so here I sit with it. But, she needs A LOT of TLC which I have mostly completed now, just missing a receiver cover.....which is not an easy replacement. She will go under the knife and get the barrel shortened to the gas tube end, a retracting stock installed (like a 249 para) and then completed with a conversion to a Golf variant for weight savings. If you want the Bravo variant parts (heat shield and lower handguard with rails) i can hold onto them for you. Feel free to let me know. Did you ever manage to track down a TH or Iknoksu for yourself? I remember you looking for one. Since it is a TH, real steel should fit with minimal to no modification. A new 240 top cover from FN costs $1400+ so forget that. I checked gun broker and can get a stripped 240/SA58 top cover for $125-200, but it's stripped. I'd then have to source the retention pins on the rear, optic rail, and other assorted parts. Hell a damn pistol grip body pin costs $50-70 from FN. Pretty sure I could mine the material, smelt the ore, and cast my own damn body pins for less. But, I digress.
  4. "Violence of Action" Joker nailed it with that. Keep movements swift. Know when to stay quiet and when to make as much noise as possible. Much like aggro in the old Army of Two games, the loudest guy with the gun barking the most will take the attention of the entire field. Know how to use that as distraction to move to better position, but also know how to be that guy. Effective CQB is about being able to transition between the quiet sneakiness and violent screaming maneuvers instantly and seamlessly. Those who practive only one of these are destined to fail; those who practice both are hard to beat. Constant movement. Left of cover, back right, back Left, back right, gun up, scanning. Engage when needed then immediately transition back to the other side of the cover to check that sector. If you are solo then you have the job of 2+ men. Know how to do both jobs, and know how to multitask and do both simultaneously. If someone gets the drop on you from a flank or your 6, then you aren't bouncing from all sides of your cover rapidly enough. When leaning from cover, never lean from the same place. Go high, go low, peak over the top, there shouldn't be a rhym or reason to it, make the opponent have to guess where you will show yourself next. Keep it random and don't make a routine. When you engage, snap shoot. Don't pause to steady yourself and shoot. Keep your bouncing momentum and snap shoot then transition. Most importantly, read the field, read the opponent, and anticipate the movements they will make. Counter those movements before they are even made and they are dead to rights for you. Learn to anticipate and prepare for it, all while doing the job above. This is how you control a field. When you manage to infiltrated and the opponent doesn't know you are there, they will the moment you pull the trigger, so time your engagement appropriately and explode out. Keep on the trigger and run and gun and don't stop. If you pause you give the opponent the necessary time to recognize, react, and reposition. Use that element of surprise to shield you and don't stop moving and shooting, just lay the hate. Most importantly, in CQB every second counts. You don't have time to reload typically. Readymags on the side of the gun aren't bad, but still take too long for reload, too many steps. Before running and gunning, breaching, or engaging, pull a spare mag from your kit and keep it in your non-dominant hand. The instant you dry fire, drop mag from the gun while simultaneously slamming ready mag into position, and do it all without looking so that you can maintain your vision on a rapidly changing battlefield. It takes practice and lots of it, but once effectively learned, reloads will take less than half a second which is monumental in rapid CQB environments. Transitioning to sidearm is only done when primary goes down for any reason. If you try this in engagements, you lose your speed advantage and will be killed almost every time. And lastly, as joker said "Violence of action," I say shock and awe. When you decide to roll heavy, hit them with everything you have. Scream, hold the trigger, and scare them into submission. This is the point when conserving ammo is not a thing. Put as many rounds downrage as humanly possible in all directions and don't let up. Make your force seem larger and more powerful than it really is. Mow the grass with rounds. No normal person dares step out of cover during this, which allows you and your unit to do as they see fit. If you have someone pinned, shoot the ever living snot out of their cover. Make as much noise as possible on that peice of cover. For most, the sounds of bbs impacting on their cover at 25+ rounds a second non stop is demoralizing. The sounds of a unit screaming and rocking full auto with amplifiers and bbs ricocheting off every single thing in the vicinity is a force multiplier. It's not about killing, it's about psychologically disabling and demoralizing the opponent. Creating a situation in which they say "there is nothing I can do about this." That is the greatest form of defeat. In the reverse, also know how to counteract this. Desensatize yourself to force multipliers and psychological aspects. The only way to counter Violence of Action is with your own Violence of Action. Those perpetuating it are focused on an entire section of the field, a broad frontline to suppress. Analyze their line and exploit the weaknesses. Violence of Action is only as good as the will of those behind it. If you can break the line and punch through, or flank if from the side and impose your own Violence of Action in response, they lose their advantage. It becomes a force on force engagement now, and welcome to the meat grinder where every inch is paved with the dead. The most important thing to remember, CQB is fast paced and there is no room for error. Thus, NEVER stop to analyze and NEVER second guess. Analyze while in the fight and moving and make your decisions quickly and stick to them. 9 times out of 10, those that fail either second guessed themselves and/or paused to analyze the field. Always keep your momentum up and program analyzing and decisions making to be second nature: muscle memory: auto pilot.
  5. RANDOM REQUEST TIME!!!! I have a Trigger Happy M240B here with no top cover. Does anyone have any idea where I could find one? I don't expect anyone to have one....without the rest of the gun attached that is....but where to locate a replacement one? Would an iknoksu cover fit? How about real steel? Literally any input is appreciated. This is a total crap shoot.
  6. I mean....if people want to play aorsoft in the cornfields around the house im sure we can reinact some childern of the corn style scenes. I'll never say no to cheap labor, but this summer is shot. Got barns to get overhauled and prepped for a wedding. Im pretty far north, but happy to host non-game things for AI in the future. Ill have the full shop here too with machining capabilities for techwork. Should have that done this coming winter.
  7. Not that it would affect literally anyone else, but given the crap shoot mother nature is this spring, I may still be out on tractor that late in May. But, if it works for others, go for it. I still like the idea of a tech day on my end, but im open to anything. Hell I'll even host in coming years if need be, but my new shop and barn are nowhere near ready for anything this summer.
  8. I will be present with [bW] and have additionals in tow. Game is typically crowded, but it makes for great force on force, meat grinder style, fast paced engagements, and typically by later in the day a lot have dropped from the field which opens up significantly and becomes a greater game of strategy for engagement. Always a fun time.
  9. Its ironic really. I can speak math/physics which is made up of umpteen different languages, alphabets, etc but when it comes to English, just take me outback and put me down like a horse with a broken leg.
  10. So, when are we thinking? Feb has come and gone now, and assuming that we all need 4 weeks advanced notice, this would put us into April for a meeting. Lets tack down a date. Easter isn't until the 21st, so, what say the second weekend of April? That would be the 13-14. I am regularly down in the southern Indiana area for work on a damn near bi-weekly basis right now. I shouldn't have any trouble working it into my schedule regardless os where hosting will occur. The idea of a cookout is good. Or better yet, why not put on a giant Tech day? It would get new players out, give face time between players and techs, promote AI inner relationships amongst everyone, and we could host the official meeting over lunch. Just a thought. Where in the greater central IN could host this? *EDIT* My proof reading skills suck. Grammar ans spelling fixed...I think
  11. Appreciate the response Crimson. That diagram may come in handy as well. It baffles me that this issue has never really been brought to light over the years. Ill be honest, in the last decade it isn't an issue that I have ever witnessed/heard of with all the '60s that have come and go from my shops. Yet here I currently sit with the issue x3. Someone, somewhere, at some time, has had to go through this and somehow solved it. I wonder if the spring feed tube is a standard diameter? Maybe I could find a plumbing fitting that would work for it? I am going to push that 3D print file to my 3D printer guy and see what he can do. If he can make it, then JB Weld should hold it to the tube and I just have to find a collar to fit over it and match the threads on the gun. Hands down one of the most annoying airsoft things ever.
  12. Pretty simple, yet seemingly impossible to find. I'm sitting here with 4 "broken" M60 box mags, three of which are missing this nut and collar. It is the nut and collar that is on the end of the mag tube feed spring that connect directly to the gun body. Refer to the photo links below. https://imgur.com/psH5yyB https://imgur.com/2nd8qeO Before I go off and redneck engineer the hell out of this with entirely too expansive of parts on machines completely over qualified for fake bb-gun work, does anyone know where to find easy replacements? One would think that being able to purchase new spring feed tubes would mean you should be able to find the nut and collar as well.......
  13. Shes a beaut aint she? Absolutely zero interest on it thus far. ALL Readers: Currently Sold and not available CAW Launcher: Sold Only One scar: Sold G&G CQB-H: Sold BOTH P90's: Sold All P-90 Mags: Sold P-90 DSG Gearbox: Sold E1 G36C: Sold Plate Carrier : Sold Hydro Carrier: Sold Complete Crane Stock: Sold M4 2 Piece Rail: Sold The P226 list is actually a Tokyo Marui, NOT a KJW. It ust needs new seals is all and some TLC. Its well used, but it is a TM. Additionally, the Madbull SWR Trident Mock Suppressor 14mm ccw on the front of the G&G CQB-H (pictured in original post) is now available. Asking $25 Everything else is still available currently
  14. One SCAR is sold Both P90's are sold All P90 mags are sold P90 DSG gearbox is sold CAW launcher is sold G36 is sold Also, the P226 is actually a Tokyo Marui that just needs some tlc with seals. Still listed as the same price and still available.
  15. Fair input. The G&P's were the first that came to mind when writing it up. To be fair, even those are technically "out of date" by this point. Plus the G&P's never seem to last long, at least not when in "performance mode." I suggest just about any other motor as well. I experimented briefly with a Tinely for a short bit. Good CNC motor, but it just didn't quite do what I personally wanted it to do. I'm also super pickey though. Old Systema Magnum motors work fantastic for this and run like a raped ape, but they also sound like one too....not optimal in a "quiet" build. And they are battery guzzling monsters. I still to this day run CA Extremes from like '08 and AMP's from the '10 era. All are still running strong. The CA's are thirsty, but those AMP's just eat my batteries alive lol. But, I have no problem carrying spare lipos on me. Only a mild inconvenience for me personally. Anyone else have input on specific motors to look at? Post em up. Can be a help to OP and anyone ever reading this thread
×
×
  • Create New...