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  2. Welcome back, I second what Nox said too... :LOL:
  3. Roster: (2) Joker  gtwr60000 - green... probably
  4. Roster: (1) gtwr60000 - green...probably I plan to attend.
  5. 💥IMPACT Open Play💥 IMPACT Open Play Date: 22DEC2019 (Sunday) Time: 11:00AM to 5:00PM Location: Joker's Circus in Bloomington IN (39.192064, -86.578140) Cost: Free Relaxed open play style games. Simple game types. The rules for this particular event will be very relaxed. We may or may not even chronograph weapons. Full seal eye protection is NOT required. However if you choose to wear shooting glasses I request that they at least have a retention strap. And if you still have not filled out an IMPACT waiver I do still need that. I noticed the lack of events so I'm trying to help out and give everyone another opportunity to pew pew. It’s going to potentially be very cold and even snowy so be prepared for bad weather. IMPACT Waiver: http://airsoftindiana.proboards.com/thread/72/release-form Feel free to use any props that are already out on the field for your games. As far as teams you guys can do green vs tan or just wear whatever you want and divide up on game day. Vehicles with 4WD should park inside the gate. Guns should be kept out of sight of the road and passing traffic. Please pick up after yourself, I don't want to find a bunch of trash on the field. I reserve the right to cancel this event due to bad weather or other unforeseen circumstances. Copy and past to add or remove yourself from the roster. Roster: (0) ~Joker
  6. Wow. They look great. I know sometimes painting something with various surfaces, like the rails for example, can be difficult. You nailed it though. Thanks for the wonderful write up as well, very helpful info. I don’t mind the ridiculous paint jobs as long as they are done well lol. ~Joker
  7. Hey everyone just wanted to say happy Thanksgiving! Are any of you taking advantage of the Black Friday deals going on and getting some new Airsoft guns, gear, or accessories? Maybe some real steel stuff? Most of my money these days goes to my kids. I have my eye on a couple little things for Airsoft but it’s not anything too exciting. I may go grab some 9mm, 22lr, and 7.62x39 if I can. ~Joker
  8. Joker


    Oh wow there’s a name I haven’t heard in a minute. Welcome back! I hope to run into you again soon. ~Joker
  9. Welcome. There used to be a team from that area. I think most of them played at Silver Spur in Princeton. ~Joker
  10. There are pockets of people all around the state. We had a few people in the Ft. Wayne area, but they've either moved on or not so active anymore. At any rate, you're not alone up there. We have a few people who meander their way around North Indiana, more towards the Northwest and North Central sections (Elkhart, etc.) and some even venture into Kalamazoo (pretty cool indoor spot up there). Enjoy your stay and don't be afraid to travel.
  11. Hit up a game or two and ask people if you can try out one of their guns. Sounds like you are very used to real firearms so an AEG might be really awkward for you to shoot as there is no recoil, but it also might not be an issue. Definitely do what you can to best figure out what kind of airsoft gun you want before purchasing so that you don't buy one, pick it up after it ships to you, then realize it's not something you want to use lol
  12. Nox


    Welcome back!
  13. Nox

    Hello there!

    I feel like i remember you... But who knows lol
  14. I would like to buy a tan, Glock 34 gen. 5 CO2 pistol.
  15. I’m late. I’m from Evansville. See you on the field.
  16. Sounds like you want a DMR. Tbh everyone starts airsoft cause the videos and want to be a sniper. There are a few things to consider, what are the 2 fields you’ll be playing at most of the time? And definitely rent a gun if you can before spending the MINIMUM of $150 on a gun (go $350 buy once cry once) to see if you like the sport and what your play style is. What are their minimum engagement distances (MEDs), most important is the field (is it open or CQC? Do you even need a scope?), field gun power requirements, game mode, etc. Spring is the best for conventional bolt sniping, powerful and the most quiet. Air aka CO2 or Green Gas, I’m not an expert so idk maybe. Mostly for pistols. Electric, or AEG is what I use, a good ole M4. The most popular of airsoft guns, usually for rifles, subs, and DMRs. But always fairly loud, and mostly unable to silence. And really, in airsoft you don’t really need a gun “setup”. Pick a gun, and you’re done. I find $200 scopes, lasers, flashlights, bipods to be largely impractical. Between running, face and eye protection, adrenaline, and target distance, you don’t really need to or will, hard aim. Most of my kills are within pistol range. My opinions are mostly based on MY fields, if your field is big and with good long lines of sight, go full on sniper. If your moving around, your prolly advancing, enemies are also, don’t get out gunned, go full auto. But of course there are times you’ll need either speed or range. But remember everyone else is going to be running or behind cover, so you’ll have to get a flank most of the time or face losing wackamole. So do you even need the range of a sniper? But again, this all depends on the fields you’ll be at and your style, that’s the biggest factor. Airsoft is expensive, between gear and guns it’s easy to spend $1000. Sniping is the most expensive class to play. I can elaborate more if need be but otherwise, Welcome to airsoft soldier, Rattler out.
  17. Alex aka “Rattler”. I was at the Boneyard games Oct. 19th and Nov. 9th. Is there a secret airsoft spot in Eville? There should be. 11/11/19
  18. So no one else that plays airsoft lives in Ft Wayne area ? LOL
  19. So I will be turning 40 in December and I have always enjoyed paintball and real weapons. I have a suppressed .300 Black Out, A Lever Action 30-30, Remington R1 1911 .45 and have owned and shot all kinds of weapons. mp7's, mp5's, m16 A1, G36 & SCARs. That said, I have no Airsoft guns and have been interested in taking it up. And need advice on which setup might be best. I like sniping, but also like moving and of course a handgun. Maybe a semi-auto long distance setup that can be used while moving quickly is what I am looking for. I know nothing about Spring vs. Air vs. Electric etc. so I need some good advice on a selection that won't quite break the bank but is a good viable option that can holds its own and could possibly be upgraded in the future. I want to start shopping online and even here for a good setup but before I do that, I need to know what to look for. Can I get some good advice? I plan on playing outside 90% of the time if not more. If that helps. I want accuracy over looks. Name is Ryan and Live in NE Indiana West of Ft. Wayne. Thanks in Advance
  20. Second Bear's comments! Really like the Tiger'isk stripe on the 60 too... Well done sir!
  21. Sup all long time no talk I relocated to ft Wayne a year ago and been busy w school work getting married but want to get back into airsoft looking for local guys, I work at gi sportz so i can get some airsoft gear to get me back in it even though its tippmann not the greatest but I will make it work so if your in the area message me or respond whatever let's chat..boomer
  22. Paintjob looks beautiful. Though I now have the urge to skip the tan paintjob I was planning on my L85 and do some sort of pink dazzle camo pattern instead.
  23. Little over two years ago my interest peaked in concealment mods and thus the idea of gun painting came up. I think we can all agree that nearly 95% of painted guns out there look like shite though and I HATE with a burning passion the texture of a gun that is just primed and feels like a chalkboard. Thus my requirements for the painting were 1) It needs to actually look good, not like a third grader who spent more time huffing the aerosol can than actually applying the paint 2) It needs to be functional and actually work, so no punisher camo, orange tiger stripe, etc etc "look at me," "give me attention because my parents never did" style paint jobs 3) It needs to have a proper finish so that im not getting spine chills every time my fingers contact the gun and remind me of fingernails on a chalkboard (*shudder* uggghhh!) 4) It needs to be durable but able to wear in and as such look natural.....unlike any of the Kardashians So, a bit of research, a bit of testing, and I settled on plain jane rattle cans (its what the pros use....no joke) which if properly applied, are long lasting but do wear as I was looking for. As to the finish, the secret has always been clear coat. Finish is its literal defined job. Its no secret, yet literally nobody does it. Matte clearcoat mist from 8-12" away to reduce any amount of shine while still providing the smooth finish. Now, all I needed was pattern. Theres a bazillion different camo patterns out there and even more forum threads and conversations on which is best. The sheer idiocracy in much of said discussions is staggering. So abandoning that, I analyzed my specific environment (Indiana) and the camo patterns that have worked best in my experience and made my decisions from there. To no surprise, or total surprise, I dont know, but anways, I settled on Flecktarn. *Note: This is not to be a debate on the effectiveness of flecktarn in the Indiana and greater central upper Midwest region, because, if you disagree with me, well, your wrong, its the greatest camo ever produced, and if you don't think so then go write your congressman to have it banned in order to spite me and make your point, to which ill call you a cotton headed ninny muggins. Anyways, I discovered this company, and although it was a bit steep on price, opted to give it a shot because of requirements No. 1&2 above. https://www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils/products/flecktarn-camouflage-stencil-kit Now, in a more serious light, successful painting is all about the prep work. I dismantle the guns fully and while wearing latex gloves, wiped down all surfaces in acetone to not only clean the surface, but to simultaneously strip all oils and etch the surface for primer adhesion. Yes even the plastics, just do it gently. All it takes is a good micro-fiber cloth or paper towel that wont leave any fibers behind dipped in acetone. This isn't the acetone from your mother's/wife's/sister's medicine closet either, but the proper industrial stuff from the hardware store, aka the good stuff. Also, don't huff acetone. Its a disclaimer, plus it stinks. It is vital that you wear gloves to not only protect your hands, but to handle the now clean parts to prevent any oils or impurities from getting back on the parts. Once every inch is thoroughly scrubbed, put on fresh gloves, and reassemble. Then you are ready to start. These stencil kits are made specifically for duracoat which requires you to spray the color, and then bake the gun. Thus, it is a superb high quality with great edges and adhesion. This is where I differ and do it custom though. Proper flecktarn has 5 colors that move from dark to light in application layers and overlap a LOT. After the first gun I did, I modified my process because there just wasn't enough overlap or coverage of the darker colors. Also I ignore the stencil numbering and apply more darks. Don't worry, more darks make it turn out better I promise. Studying the actual camo pattern in front of me, I mimic placement and overlap and use all the stencils for my first 4 colors. Then for the final layer, I take an exact-o knife to the remaining stencil scraps (boarders, cut outs, etc on the transfer paper) and start making my final layer by custom cutting stencils. Ensure that all the hard lines and corners are on overlaps while the smooth and swooping edges are on bare gun surface. Sadly I don't have any pictures of this process....yet. Ill update the thread on my next round of painting which will happen shortly. The final paint coat should be a matte clear coat. Hold the can 8-12" away and gently dust the gun. It may apply slightly shiny, but it will dull once dried, unless of course you bathe the gun from 4" away. Also, once done spraying, let the gun rest for a week. Don't touch it. The paint needs the time to fully rest and cure. Dry paint does not mean cured paint. It needs the time to become strong like Russian ox. If you find yourself wanting to touch the still curing gun, take you hands and go touch something else (*Disclaimer: I do not condone any inappropriate behavior from this statement. Said statement shall apply only to its intended use and statement provider shall be released from any legal ramifications from any misinterpretation of said statement.) The best part of these stencils is that if you do the above and apply them properly, gently remove then and place them on wax paper. The stencils will still have their adhesive and can be reused to the paint mags. I don't suggest painting another gun with them as the paint buildup on the edges will cause the overlaps to not be as precise, but it is plenty precise for mags and other assorted rail furniture. I personally painted 16 mags, 8 at a time, so I got 3 uses out of the stencils, making them well worth my money. A full gun and 16 mags is worth $55 in my book. Things to keep in mind: - ALWAYS wear latex gloves when handling the gun, stencils, or placing stencils. Keep the oils from your hands off of all. - ALWAYS cycle gloves to a new pair each round of stenciling to keep impurities from transferring and NEVER reuse gloves. Just buy a whole box of them at a time. - Don't paint like a retard. Multiple smooth, light coats is the way to go....not heavy coats. You should still see the yellow of the stencil after your first two coats. Slow and steady buildup man. - Hit from all directions including from below. The gun! Nothing else! Just the gun. Get your mind out of the gutter. - Don't be afraid to blend paints as you go. For me, the flecktarn grey was achieved by applying a grey primer and then dusting it with a light forest green to give it the green hue. - Give 24 hours of dry time between color final layer coat and next layer stencil. - Remove stencils gently and with an exact-o knife when necessary, not your grubby fingernail. If you are using your fingernail then you already broke rule number 1 above so you might as well just throw it, and yourself, into the trash can because its were you both belong. - WEAR GLOVES So without further adieu, here is the finished product. The AK in traditional flecktarn was the first one before my modified process. As you can see, there is too much light green and the overlap doesn't look right. However, the second AK utilizing my modified process turned out phenomenal. Then I did a chopped M60 for fun and it turned out great on the traditional colors (sorry for lack of good photo, waiting on completion of her flecktarn sister). The actual hardware gun builds themselves are different stories. I can type it up if anyone wants to hear them. Each AK is a ridiculous overkill build and priced well above anything I could ever sell, so they are just permanent personals. As to effectiveness, I suppose that's an ongoing thing and up to the eye of the beholder. A few shots of in game though, which are of me very much not trying to blend in and more or less running and gunning. Still need to get the tropentarn AK out for a game still. It isn't the easiest way to paint, but by far and second only to hydro-dipping, it is one of the best. Also, the rattle cans are all Rustoliem. So, feel free to ask any questions. Hopefully this gives some ideas and insight to others wanting similar. I have at least three more projects coming up (1 airsoft 2 real steel) so Ill update this thread as I go.
  24. hrturner


    I recall the name (as well as many of the other's you listed, haha). Regardless welcome back. Don't see many of those names anymore sadly though.
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