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  1. Yesterday
  2. I’m late. I’m from Evansville. See you on the field.
  3. Sounds like you want a DMR. Tbh everyone starts airsoft cause the videos and want to be a sniper. There are a few things to consider, what are the 2 fields you’ll be playing at most of the time? And definitely rent a gun if you can before spending the MINIMUM of $150 on a gun (go $350 buy once cry once) to see if you like the sport and what your play style is. What are their minimum engagement distances (MEDs), most important is the field (is it open or CQC? Do you even need a scope?), field gun power requirements, game mode, etc. Spring is the best for conventional bolt sniping, powerful and the most quiet. Air aka CO2 or Green Gas, I’m not an expert so idk maybe. Mostly for pistols. Electric, or AEG is what I use, a good ole M4. The most popular of airsoft guns, usually for rifles, subs, and DMRs. But always fairly loud, and mostly unable to silence. And really, in airsoft you don’t really need a gun “setup”. Pick a gun, and you’re done. I find $200 scopes, lasers, flashlights, bipods to be largely impractical. Between running, face and eye protection, adrenaline, and target distance, you don’t really need to or will, hard aim. Most of my kills are within pistol range. My opinions are mostly based on MY fields, if your field is big and with good long lines of sight, go full on sniper. If your moving around, your prolly advancing, enemies are also, don’t get out gunned, go full auto. But of course there are times you’ll need either speed or range. But remember everyone else is going to be running or behind cover, so you’ll have to get a flank most of the time or face losing wackamole. So do you even need the range of a sniper? But again, this all depends on the fields you’ll be at and your style, that’s the biggest factor. Airsoft is expensive, between gear and guns it’s easy to spend $1000. Sniping is the most expensive class to play. I can elaborate more if need be but otherwise, Welcome to airsoft soldier, Rattler out.
  4. Last week
  5. Alex aka “Rattler”. I was at the Boneyard games Oct. 19th and Nov. 9th. Is there a secret airsoft spot in Eville? There should be. 11/11/19
  6. So no one else that plays airsoft lives in Ft Wayne area ? LOL
  7. So I will be turning 40 in December and I have always enjoyed paintball and real weapons. I have a suppressed .300 Black Out, A Lever Action 30-30, Remington R1 1911 .45 and have owned and shot all kinds of weapons. mp7's, mp5's, m16 A1, G36 & SCARs. That said, I have no Airsoft guns and have been interested in taking it up. And need advice on which setup might be best. I like sniping, but also like moving and of course a handgun. Maybe a semi-auto long distance setup that can be used while moving quickly is what I am looking for. I know nothing about Spring vs. Air vs. Electric etc. so I need some good advice on a selection that won't quite break the bank but is a good viable option that can holds its own and could possibly be upgraded in the future. I want to start shopping online and even here for a good setup but before I do that, I need to know what to look for. Can I get some good advice? I plan on playing outside 90% of the time if not more. If that helps. I want accuracy over looks. Name is Ryan and Live in NE Indiana West of Ft. Wayne. Thanks in Advance
  8. Earlier
  9. Second Bear's comments! Really like the Tiger'isk stripe on the 60 too... Well done sir!
  10. Sup all long time no talk I relocated to ft Wayne a year ago and been busy w school work getting married but want to get back into airsoft looking for local guys, I work at gi sportz so i can get some airsoft gear to get me back in it even though its tippmann not the greatest but I will make it work so if your in the area message me or respond whatever let's chat..boomer
  11. Paintjob looks beautiful. Though I now have the urge to skip the tan paintjob I was planning on my L85 and do some sort of pink dazzle camo pattern instead.
  12. Little over two years ago my interest peaked in concealment mods and thus the idea of gun painting came up. I think we can all agree that nearly 95% of painted guns out there look like shite though and I HATE with a burning passion the texture of a gun that is just primed and feels like a chalkboard. Thus my requirements for the painting were 1) It needs to actually look good, not like a third grader who spent more time huffing the aerosol can than actually applying the paint 2) It needs to be functional and actually work, so no punisher camo, orange tiger stripe, etc etc "look at me," "give me attention because my parents never did" style paint jobs 3) It needs to have a proper finish so that im not getting spine chills every time my fingers contact the gun and remind me of fingernails on a chalkboard (*shudder* uggghhh!) 4) It needs to be durable but able to wear in and as such look natural.....unlike any of the Kardashians So, a bit of research, a bit of testing, and I settled on plain jane rattle cans (its what the pros use....no joke) which if properly applied, are long lasting but do wear as I was looking for. As to the finish, the secret has always been clear coat. Finish is its literal defined job. Its no secret, yet literally nobody does it. Matte clearcoat mist from 8-12" away to reduce any amount of shine while still providing the smooth finish. Now, all I needed was pattern. Theres a bazillion different camo patterns out there and even more forum threads and conversations on which is best. The sheer idiocracy in much of said discussions is staggering. So abandoning that, I analyzed my specific environment (Indiana) and the camo patterns that have worked best in my experience and made my decisions from there. To no surprise, or total surprise, I dont know, but anways, I settled on Flecktarn. *Note: This is not to be a debate on the effectiveness of flecktarn in the Indiana and greater central upper Midwest region, because, if you disagree with me, well, your wrong, its the greatest camo ever produced, and if you don't think so then go write your congressman to have it banned in order to spite me and make your point, to which ill call you a cotton headed ninny muggins. Anyways, I discovered this company, and although it was a bit steep on price, opted to give it a shot because of requirements No. 1&2 above. https://www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils/products/flecktarn-camouflage-stencil-kit Now, in a more serious light, successful painting is all about the prep work. I dismantle the guns fully and while wearing latex gloves, wiped down all surfaces in acetone to not only clean the surface, but to simultaneously strip all oils and etch the surface for primer adhesion. Yes even the plastics, just do it gently. All it takes is a good micro-fiber cloth or paper towel that wont leave any fibers behind dipped in acetone. This isn't the acetone from your mother's/wife's/sister's medicine closet either, but the proper industrial stuff from the hardware store, aka the good stuff. Also, don't huff acetone. Its a disclaimer, plus it stinks. It is vital that you wear gloves to not only protect your hands, but to handle the now clean parts to prevent any oils or impurities from getting back on the parts. Once every inch is thoroughly scrubbed, put on fresh gloves, and reassemble. Then you are ready to start. These stencil kits are made specifically for duracoat which requires you to spray the color, and then bake the gun. Thus, it is a superb high quality with great edges and adhesion. This is where I differ and do it custom though. Proper flecktarn has 5 colors that move from dark to light in application layers and overlap a LOT. After the first gun I did, I modified my process because there just wasn't enough overlap or coverage of the darker colors. Also I ignore the stencil numbering and apply more darks. Don't worry, more darks make it turn out better I promise. Studying the actual camo pattern in front of me, I mimic placement and overlap and use all the stencils for my first 4 colors. Then for the final layer, I take an exact-o knife to the remaining stencil scraps (boarders, cut outs, etc on the transfer paper) and start making my final layer by custom cutting stencils. Ensure that all the hard lines and corners are on overlaps while the smooth and swooping edges are on bare gun surface. Sadly I don't have any pictures of this process....yet. Ill update the thread on my next round of painting which will happen shortly. The final paint coat should be a matte clear coat. Hold the can 8-12" away and gently dust the gun. It may apply slightly shiny, but it will dull once dried, unless of course you bathe the gun from 4" away. Also, once done spraying, let the gun rest for a week. Don't touch it. The paint needs the time to fully rest and cure. Dry paint does not mean cured paint. It needs the time to become strong like Russian ox. If you find yourself wanting to touch the still curing gun, take you hands and go touch something else (*Disclaimer: I do not condone any inappropriate behavior from this statement. Said statement shall apply only to its intended use and statement provider shall be released from any legal ramifications from any misinterpretation of said statement.) The best part of these stencils is that if you do the above and apply them properly, gently remove then and place them on wax paper. The stencils will still have their adhesive and can be reused to the paint mags. I don't suggest painting another gun with them as the paint buildup on the edges will cause the overlaps to not be as precise, but it is plenty precise for mags and other assorted rail furniture. I personally painted 16 mags, 8 at a time, so I got 3 uses out of the stencils, making them well worth my money. A full gun and 16 mags is worth $55 in my book. Things to keep in mind: - ALWAYS wear latex gloves when handling the gun, stencils, or placing stencils. Keep the oils from your hands off of all. - ALWAYS cycle gloves to a new pair each round of stenciling to keep impurities from transferring and NEVER reuse gloves. Just buy a whole box of them at a time. - Don't paint like a retard. Multiple smooth, light coats is the way to go....not heavy coats. You should still see the yellow of the stencil after your first two coats. Slow and steady buildup man. - Hit from all directions including from below. The gun! Nothing else! Just the gun. Get your mind out of the gutter. - Don't be afraid to blend paints as you go. For me, the flecktarn grey was achieved by applying a grey primer and then dusting it with a light forest green to give it the green hue. - Give 24 hours of dry time between color final layer coat and next layer stencil. - Remove stencils gently and with an exact-o knife when necessary, not your grubby fingernail. If you are using your fingernail then you already broke rule number 1 above so you might as well just throw it, and yourself, into the trash can because its were you both belong. - WEAR GLOVES So without further adieu, here is the finished product. The AK in traditional flecktarn was the first one before my modified process. As you can see, there is too much light green and the overlap doesn't look right. However, the second AK utilizing my modified process turned out phenomenal. Then I did a chopped M60 for fun and it turned out great on the traditional colors (sorry for lack of good photo, waiting on completion of her flecktarn sister). The actual hardware gun builds themselves are different stories. I can type it up if anyone wants to hear them. Each AK is a ridiculous overkill build and priced well above anything I could ever sell, so they are just permanent personals. As to effectiveness, I suppose that's an ongoing thing and up to the eye of the beholder. A few shots of in game though, which are of me very much not trying to blend in and more or less running and gunning. Still need to get the tropentarn AK out for a game still. It isn't the easiest way to paint, but by far and second only to hydro-dipping, it is one of the best. Also, the rattle cans are all Rustoliem. So, feel free to ask any questions. Hopefully this gives some ideas and insight to others wanting similar. I have at least three more projects coming up (1 airsoft 2 real steel) so Ill update this thread as I go.
  13. hrturner

    Re-intro

    I recall the name (as well as many of the other's you listed, haha). Regardless welcome back. Don't see many of those names anymore sadly though.
  14. Mage

    Re-intro

    Would have posted under YC then Went with Psycho, Ambu, Knaus, Buckeye, Snakedoctor, Funk, Jackass, used to have fairly close ties with blackwatch and IPMO guys but we didn't get south very often.
  15. Welcome to the forum. Yeah, just like Turner said, you won't find any 'legit' sales on Facebook. A lot of people start right off asking about clubs and teams, and my honest advice about that is to worry about that later. Form your own attitude and play style before linking up to someone else's. People tend to imitate the company they keep and that could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on who you talk to. Tournaments? Not really. Games? Oh yeah, there's always something going on.
  16. I'm trying to build my collection again. I'll offer up $200 for the Krytac.
  17. Welcome! Facebook banned airsoft weapons quite some time ago. The forums do allow BST but I'm working on correcting the selling system. We recently updated to new software and some of the old stuff didn't carry over properly. Events are sporadic in Indiana. Some times we have several per weekend and other times (like the winter) you'll go months with one of two events total.
  18. hrturner

    Re-intro

    Welcome... Not many still around from the IAA days. What name did you go under back then?
  19. Hey guys! So watch a lot of YouTube about airsoft and really interested in getting involved. I know NOTHING about it. I used to do paintball 10+ years ago. But, really wanna get into some airsoft. 1. Any “clans” or “clubs” (Or whatever they are called these days) local to Indy? 2. I see there is like NO classifieds or anything on airsoft hardly anywhere on FB. I’m guessing legalities on FB prevent that. Do the forums allow? 3. How often do you guys have tournaments and whatnot? Thanks! Hendry
  20. Mage

    Re-intro

    Used to be active under another name in the IAA days but it's been close to ten years. Based in Indianapolis now, recently formed a team with some guys from NWI all the way to Louisville. Giving HPA a try this time around. Hopefully someone can fill me in on who's still kicking and the state of the game in the region.
  21. Lankro

    Wtb Mp5 Or Mp7

    hey junker, not sure if you are still looking for a MP5 but I currently have this https://www.evike.com/products/43855 and was wanting to sell it for 200 It doesn't have a scratch on it and i've only played with it in the field once and it operates amazingly, a bit heavy but nothing too bad, I would also include two mags with it.
  22. IMPACT OP: Scarecrow 3 DATE: Sunday October 13th 2019 LOCATION: Joker's Circus in Bloomington IN (39.192064, -86.578140) COST: $FREE TIME: Game starts at 11AM and ends at 5PM. End time is approximate. We MIGHT also be grilling food! So feel free to bring some food and or drink with you. You may also attend just to hang out and eat, you don't have to play. Rules: IMPACT skirmish rules apply unless otherwise noted. An IMPACT waiver is needed if you do not already have one on file (please bring it with you as I may not have extras). Full seal ANSI rated goggles must be worn at all times by all players. All guns must shoot 350 FPS and under. Semi auto is preferred. A full face mask or covering is highly recommend. 3 AEG midcaps per person and no loose ammo. No limit on shotgun shells or handgun mags. Grenades that shower bbs are allowed, one per player. Zombies when hit will take a knee for 30 seconds (counted out loud) then may resume play as a zombie. Zombies can run but must be careful. A zombie touching a survivor indicates "infection" and then turns that survivor into a zombie for the duration of that round. When a survivor is turned he can ether set his weapons down somewhere or he can just sling them. There is a 30 second "bleed out" time (must be counted out loud) before a turned player can resume play as a zombie. "Boss Zombies" must be killed using special means which will be told to the survivors when needed. No gun? No problem! Given the game's severe resource deprivation and fps restrictions, we are allowing the use of staff approved LARP-safe melee weapons. Boffer/foam/latex/nerf weapons are allowed. Rubber knives will not be permitted. One squad will act as survivors to try and complete all objectives while all other squads will act as zombies. Once a squad has finished, the game will reset and the next squad will be rotated in. All players will be both zombies and survivors (unless you want to be a zombie only). *If all squads complete the course and we finish "early" then we may give those who failed another attemp or we will play skirmish type games until everyone is done playing. -Best dressed survivor & zombie award? -I am sure I am forgetting a few things so feel free to ask questions. Squads (4-12 players) Squad 1 Squad 2 Squad 3: Squad 4: Zombie Only: Joker Food Only: ~Joker
  23. These are both in amazing condition. I do not play anymore. I would like $300 for both. Located in 47220.
  24. Copied from FB: Static Insulator is our first installment of our new series BLACKOUT. It is a RPG style game, that will be taking place at Indy Paintball battleground. HIFi Resupply will be on site for your airsoft needs. Enola Gaye will be sold ON and off the field. Details will be released this week.Cost of game is $45 7:30~Gates/Check In 8:00~Chrono Open 9:30~Game Briefing 10:00~Game Start 12:00~Lunch Break 1:00~Game Resumes 4:00~Last Chance 4:30~Game end 4:40~Closing Blackout Op: Static Insulator In the year 2039, on the ten-year anniversary of the catastrophe that knocked out the national power grid, a rebellious uprising has started to unfold. The United Armed Forces (UAF) has significantly taken over what was at one time the United States of America. Taking advantage of those less fortunate everywhere they travel. Setting outposts to dictate the citizens lives, rations, weapons and ammunition. Leaving it very difficult for the people to protect themselves and their families. Many have lost their loved ones over the past few years. Rumor has it that “The Fallen” (civilians) have made serious progress in learning who is in control of the military agenda. Life has been a struggle without electricity, no communication or entertainment. Disease and exposure have become rampant. Finding out who is running our country now, acquiring electronics that haven’t been damaged by the EMP is beginning to look optimistic. If we can find the items we need to make radio contact, maybe, just maybe we can stand to fight another day and learn who has committed these terrible acts to our country. Matt Cauthon is another name that has gained a strange reputation as of late. His bias to The Fallen has been proven time and time again but rumors still circulate that he may have external ties still in place with the UAF. His background is mysterious and only tales that seem to have no beginning or end surround him. Tales of Matt Cauthon receiving arms munition from the underground market and selling them to the highest bidder have already been validated but his uncanny ways have led him to gain favor in the eyes of Gov. Quinn none the less. While Matt Cauthon’s intentions are still questionable one thing is for certain…he is still one that Gov. Quinn can count on for munition supplies with the little money The Fallen do possess. Frasier Quinn and Nick Micheals were in the military together, as specialist operators building machinery and outposts, as their dislike for their commander grew, so did their friendship. After the EMP knocked out the electrical grid. Frasier and Nick left the UAF and started the seemingly impossible task of rebuilding society on their terms. Governor Frasier Quinn has led The Fallen in and out of UAF territory stealing back food and other supplies. People have been saying that possibilities of him already having radio contact may turn out to be true after all. Although life is beginning to look up, the UAF still owns all the land. It’s time for The Fallen forces to change that. We need to take back our country that our forefathers fought so valiantly for. The up rise of The Fallen starts with gathering short wave radio communications, food, supplies, and ammunition. Will today be the day The Fallen gather enough intel to devise a plan to bring power back to their ravished community? https://www.facebook.com/events/393604181358771/?ti=icl ~Joker
  25. Copied from FB: Its time for Warhounds' annual Halloween event again!!! Come on out and experience a full day of non-stop, Halloween themed, plastic slinging action! We have many exciting and immersive games planned, as well as, tons of props to be used throughout. Costumes are welcome and encouraged!!! ***WARNING: We do use gore in our props and games.*** $10 Silver Spur field fee $5 all-day air Date: Saturday October 5th Time: 10:00AM to 1:00PM Location: Silver Spur Splat 2477 W 50 N Princeton, Indiana 47670 https://www.facebook.com/events/437828493607508/?ti=icl ~Joker
  26. We can always use more event hosts. Seriously. And everything you’ve posted sounds great. I wouldn’t imagine you having trouble linking with a field. I hope to run into you on the field soon. Welcome to the madhouse. ~Joker
  27. Hey there, plenty of events happening fairly regularly at various fields just south of you in and around Bloomington. Hope to run into you on the field soon. Welcome to the madhouse. ~Joker
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