XPatriot Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I picked up a full metal A&K ACR Masada from Airsoft Megastore during their Memorial Day sale for a whopping $108 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endgame Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I wouldn't use an 11.1v on it, though I've been known to use them before with my Krytac (manufacturer's suggestion and all that). I would stick with at 7.4v lipo and only replace or upgrade when it wears out and/or breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPatriot Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 Does it help any that I only shoot semi and have a fuse? I like 11.1 for the snappiness.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russian Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 I have the gun and love it. Like ive gone through a lot of guns and this is by far my favorite aeg. I run the stock gears with a lonex a1 also, and have fine for years. I only use a 7.4 in mine though. I have considered going to a set of shs high speeds to get better ROF, bu not because I doubted the A&K gears. And yes, having both, ACR>SCAR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hanback Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 The internals are plain jane regular A&K internals. Nothing special, nothing bad, just generic. Word of advice, replace the hop-up unit first. It is not a question of if, but a question of when the cheap plastic unit will break. In the years since the guns initial release, I have never seen one not break within a year or two of owning it. As a gun tech, A&K Masada's rank in the top 5 worst AEG's to work on, right next to low end scars. Why? Because of the poorly thought out ambidextrous selector system. To get the gearbox out of the lower, you literally have to pry the sides of the body apart (typically with a flat head) until the shell can lift out. Often times you have to shimmy the gearbox side to side to get it to pop out over the inside gears attached to the selector switches. In this process you also have to be very careful not to damage the teeth on the cheap metal gears of the selector system otherwise the switches will never work right again. The last pain is that during re-assembly, you have to ensure that the switches and corresponding switch gears on the outer gearbox shell stay properly aligned in the violent process of getting the shell in/out of the receiver, otherwise the switches wont work properly and you have to pull the shell back out, re-adjust, and try again. (I'm not trying to scare you, just an honest assessment). As for running lipo's, the issue is not mechanical, but electrical. People always claim that lipos stripped their gears/pistons etc, but what they fail to realize is that lipo or not, the same thing would have happened on any battery. Parts have a lifespan, and once they reach the end, they break. Through using an 11.1v, you are speeding up this end lifetime from the rof increase, so failures can happen more frequently because the gun is undergoing the stressing at an increased rate. When wanting to run an 11.1v lipo though, you need to pay close attention to the wiring of the gun. Typically stock stuff is cheap, high gauge wire with higher internal resistance. Much like a garden hose, there is a maximum flow rate in this wire which is typically met through the use of 9.6's and 7.4 lipos. By running 11.1v lipos, you are now attempting to push even more flow into an already maxed out system, so this is where problems arise. If you want to run 11.1v lipos with minimal adverse effects, rewire the gun with higher quality lower gauge wiring which will allow this increased flow rate. 18 gauge is typically the biggest wire you can fit into a gearbox, so aim for that gauge. Whether or not you buy a harness and install it or just go to the hardware store and get some wire all depends on if you want to spend decent money for minimal work or spend almost no money but require the use of a soldering iron. All your choice. Truth be told, the gears will be fine on an 11.1v for a while depending on age. The piston will be fine provided it is properly AOE'd. The contacts will last longer provided you rewire, and it is almost impossible to fry a motor, so don't worry about that. The only other thing to truly worry about is the bushings/bearings. If they are plastic get them out of there ASAP and replace with metal ones. At an increased rof, friction on the bushings will increase, and if plastic, they can melt and degrade rapidly with heavy use. This will end with a totally wrecked gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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