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Dmr Help!


Snipin_Kyle

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Hey guys I need help. I am selling my L96 and am purchasing a AEG to be converted into a DMR. And I really need some help. I dont know what to do. I know I want a M4 or M16 as my gun but I need you guys to help me to find the perfect gun. My price rnge is 150$ plus or minus some. THx


*range


Or possible an AEG M14

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Okay before I go any deeper into this, is your budget for the gun+upgrades $150 or just for the gun? If just for the gun, what is your budget for the upgrade parts?

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If you got a CYMA M14, then you could use the rest to modify the hop up units and etc. I use to run a Svd which just by itself, the range was great.

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Okay before I go any deeper into this, is your budget for the gun+upgrades $150 or just for the gun? If just for the gun, what is your budget for the upgrade parts?

Gun. Then upgrades after that. thx

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Seen what looks to be a Cyma M14 in the classifies today..

 

The one with the extra magazine from SBAirsoft? Thats a WE lol

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The one with the extra magazine from SBAirsoft? Thats a WE lol

Glad you can tell. Hard to see from my phone. Besides I did say "looks to be". Lol

Edited by civey
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Ok, for starters your not going to be able to pick up a decent, brand new DMR for that price. I suggest you look at the used market and buy one for the body. Then whatever money you have left, look into rebuilding the gearbox.

 

Secondly, you haven't defined what you want to do with said DMR. Are you wanting an AEG that looks like a DMR, or are you wanting to go full true DMR, with higher fps and semi-only? Those are two very different definitions with two very different price budgets. If you purely want the looks, then you should be able to find a decent gun for your price range. However, if you want to go full DMR, you'll probably need more money.

 

DMR's fps cap is at 450, so roughly a m130-135 spring is what you'll need. Once you upgrade that, your already low end ferrite motor is going to struggle to pull it on stock ratio gears. The remedy is to either buy a higher ratio gearset for added torque, or a more powerful motor. In a perfect world, you want both. Then you need to permanently disable full auto. This is done through mechanical or electrical means. The easiest way is to shave off the front of the selector plate so that it wont disengage the cutoff lever even when the fire selector is rotated to the FA position. However, this can induce mechanical lock in particular situations, of which the only remedy is a burst in FA mode to unlock the gearbox or disassembly of the gearbox to resent everything. The improvement on this is with a mosfet unit to electronically control the gun. You no longer run the risk of mechanical lock and the resulting headache, but you pay for it.

 

Optimally for a DMR, you want to swap out the cheap gearbox shell for a higher end one that can take the added stresses and abuse. A V2 shell will fail, period. The cheap ones will fail faster, and more violently, so constantly inspect the front of the gearbox for the start of hairline cracks and fractures. The instant you find any, stop using the gun and replace it, don't run it till it fails, or you'll need to replace even more. Additionally, you want good bushings installed, not bearings, as they too will handle the stress better. Then you want to sorbo the cylinder head to pad the impacts even further. You want a decent set of gears to provide the necessary step up in torque to deal with the stronger spring, and then a new high torque motor to give you good trigger response. New high flow higher gauge wiring is best as the motor will need more juice to power everything, and the gun will run more efficiently on higher gauge wire that reduces internal resistance.

 

If you want to keep it that cheap, look around on the used market. Even if its listed as "non-working," the parts you can get from a gun in that manner will save money in the long run. You can get a lot more in quality with that money on the used market than you can brand new. Also, steer clear of 7.62 model AR's if you want to keep the budget low. Those models run lengthened gearboxes and pistons, and cost significantly more for replacement parts. Your best bet is to locate a 5.56 AR variant of some sort. Standard V2 parts are the cheapest and most readily available.

 

I am assuming you will have to stick with mechanical modification of the selector to get your semi only mod, so be straight and deliberate with your trigger pulls and you should be able to avoid the mechanical lock phenomena. And if you need help with building/modifying the gearbox and gun, don't be afraid to ask. There are a lot of us techs here that know what we are doing and are happy to help.

 

 

My last piece of advise, spend the money on the gearbox before you do anything else. Even with stock barrel and hop-up and no optic, the gun will shoot well and maintain reliability. Then with time you can begin to swap things out to help with accuracy, consistency, etc. You'd rather have an average accuracy gun that works all the time than a stupidly accurate gun that works only some of the time. Its equivalent to the choice of a Lambo with no engine and a rusty 1970 Chevelle with a fully rebuilt 454 under the hood. The Lambo may look cool, but it is only deadweight, and looses every race. The Chevelle though; it may be loud, rough, ride like crap, and not get you there in style, but it'll get you there for the next few years issue free, and fast.

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Or... you can buy what ever platform, drop in a P* jack. Fully adjustable fps, and Rof. Not undermining what Hanback said, just a different option.

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Or... you can buy what ever platform, drop in a P* jack. Fully adjustable fps, and Rof. Not undermining what Hanback said, just a different option.

I don't mean to undermine the non-undermine.  This is an alternative, but looking at the costs of not only the Jack engine, the FCS, the tank, regulator and all the other things involved with having an HPA system, one would almost be better served buying upgraded internals for an AEG or taking that same money and buying a GBBR and upgrade the hell out of that.

 

That's my approach to this.

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I don't mean to undermine the non-undermine. This is an alternative, but looking at the costs of not only the Jack engine, the FCS, the tank, regulator and all the other things involved with having an HPA system, one would almost be better served buying upgraded internals for an AEG or taking that same money and buying a GBBR and upgrade the hell out of that.

 

That's my approach to this.

Once you start upgrading, doesn't cost efficiency go out the window?

It did for me. Lol

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Once you start upgrading, doesn't cost efficiency go out the window?

It did for me. Lol

More or less.  :)

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I would advise against a SRC especially for a dmr build, because the metal quality of the gearbox is shotty at best... Also for a dmr build your hop is very important. It may be worth it to get it r hopped or get a used gun that is already r hopped.  

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